Photo: NRCM

What follows is a firsthand report from Sue Lincoln's experience on the Androscoggin Source-to-the-Sea Canoe Trek, which began on July 5 and ended on the 23. 

July 5

Day 1 Magalloway River to Errol Dam.

The first day of the Canoe Trek brought a sunny day, and a brisk northerly wind. Twenty seven people, in seven canoes and 13 kayaks set out from the National Wildlife Refuge HQ headed down to Lake Umbagog and then the Androscoggin River. Oh, I mustn't forget Sport and Mariah, a Jack Russel terrier and 3 month old Lab puppy as well. Sport and her owner Paula came all the way from Tacoma, Washington to join the Trek. Refuge manager Paul Casey led us around the northern stretches of the Refuge, and talked with the group about land easements, wildlife management, and bald eagles. We did see one eagle, but the NH nest is empty this year.

Notable thing learned by me today: When paddling near shore, especially during nesting season, do not slowly cruise the shoreline, but paddle along briskly. The slow pass scares nesting birds off their nests, and they feel threatened by a slow moving boat. A quick pass may spook them off their nest, but they will quickly return. Better still is to stay out away from shoreline, and leave the birds in peace.

July 6 

Errol-13-mile Wood

Another beautiful day for us on the Trek. We started off the day with flyfishing 101 with Chris from Great Glen Trails in Gorham, New Hampshire. Chris taught us about flys, rods, reels, and told a few fish stories. Some of us even got a chance to cast a rod, albeit only in the grass. It's harder than it looks, but a fun thing to learn about.

We gathered our group of 20 up, and introduced the crowd. A good mixture of local NH people, a contingent from Bethel, and other parts of Maine and New Hampshire. As well as Sport and Paula, back for day two. Dyk Eusden, geology prof from Bates taught us something about rivers and glaciers and bedrock. It was interesting to think in terms of geological time. Will Staats, from New Hampshire Fish and Game also came along, and spotted a moose on the river, long before anyone else saw it. I guess that's why he's a wildlife guy. He also spoke about his agency's partnership with Mead and Hancock to manage the woodlands in that area for deer wintering grounds, and other wildlife needs. this section has a few good sections of whitewater, and everyone sailed through without a mishap. We had Josh and Glenn along, also from Great Glen Trails to coach people's paddling skills, and lend encouragement from the rear.

Notable thing learned today: The Androscoggin is called a "deranged" river in geologicalspeak, because of its twisty, windey course to the sea. Glacier remnants in the landscape caused the river to twist and turn in order to flow, and the results are the river we have today, which flows first south, then east, north for a little bit, back to east, then south, then and so on. I liked the term deranged.

July 7

Another nice day on the river. Commissioner Bob Varney from New Hampshire Department of Environmental Services and his family joined us for the day. Half of the crew took out at the Pontook dam, and the rest of the intrepid group braved the Class 2 whitewater below the dam to continue down to the Milan Bridge. Everyone stayed upright, and finished the day with big smiles. We spotted a pair of loons with a chick, and gave them a wide berth on the river so they wouldn't be spooked. Another beautiful day.

July 8

The first annual Tour du Bois on the river was a smashing success! Over forty participants cycled and paddled the course, and had a fun morning. A new course record was set. The first over the line did it in just under an hour. Now this gives next year's participants something to shoot for. We were thinking there should be an Androscoggin Cup, so that the various races on the river could become a series. Currently there are races in: Berlin, Bethel, Lewiston/Auburn, and Lisbon Falls.

A new boat launch on the river next to the Northern Forest Heritage Park was also dedicated by NH DES. This will give another access point to people wishing to get out on the river.

In the afternoon a group of 16 boats paddled down from the Milan Bridge to the new boat launch. Several beginner paddlers learned the basics of canoeing, and got to see their home from a riverside perspective. Just after we got to Berlin, the skies opened up with a thunderstorm--just in time we got off the river.

July 9

Gorham to Shelburne.

Another nice sunny day. With the help of a van and trailer the flotilla portaged around the two dams along the river in this section. While lunching on the point where the Androscoggin and the Peabody River merge, we were treated to the sight of a young black bear nosing along the far shore. She or he seemed quite unconcerned with the people. We watched the bear for at least 5 minutes, before it sauntered off into the woods again. The day's paddle ended in Reflection Pond, which has beautiful views of the Presidential Range. A loon watched us from across the water too.

July 10

A steady rain in the early morning did not bode well for a dry day, but as soon as the crew had gathered at the Shelburne Dam, the clouds blew over, the sun came out, and we had another beautiful day. Eighteen boats and 30 people joined the Trek on this beautiful stretch which starts in New Hampshire and crosses into Maine and was ably led by Barbara Fiore and Scott Berglund from the Hurricane Island Outward Bound School. Designated as wooden canoe day, we had four wood/canvas canoes with us for the day. Department of Conservation Commissioner Ron Lavaglio and state geologist Bob Marvinney also joined us for the day. Swift water quickly carried us to the Shelburne bridge where we stopped for lunch, and heard a talk from Oxford County Soil and Water Conservation District staff Jeff Stern. A group of kids from Gorham also enjoyed the day on the river, and seemed to be wetter than most of the rest of us at the end. They learned how to splash their paddles, as well as use them to go forward. the river heads pretty much due east, until we get to Bethel, where it doglegs north for a ways. But on to the sea we go.

July 11

A big flotilla, led by Jeff Parsons of the Riverside Campground in Bethel set out from Gilead and headed down to Bethel. Along the way we stopped at the Mahoosuc Land Trust owned Kendall Island, and had a walk around the perimeter of the island. The river is beautiful through this section, with towering silver maples, birches and hemlocks gracing the banks of the river. An osprey hovered over us with the distinctive "elbow" in its wing, and its high shrieky whistle identifying it. Another smooth day. The big groups we've been having (43 people altogether) make the put in a bit of a circus, but once we get on the water, everything smooths out and the pleasure of paddling takes over.

That evening found 20 or so folks gathered around a campfire at the Riverside Campground roasting marshmallows and listening to Abenaki stories told by Rebecca Zicarelli of Bethel. We learned all about Glauskabe and his friends in the animal world.

July 12

Another beautiful day on the river. Alot of local people from Bethel, Andover, Gilead came out to paddle today. The river makes a jog to the northwest for some distance, which also happened to be where the wind was blowing from, so people had to really dig in and paddle through some sections. But all that energy was rewarded by a hot dog cookout provided by Bruce and Shirley Powell of the Stony Brook Campground at lunchtime. We were able to pull off of the river and walk right up the bank to grilled dogs and cold drinks. Two canoes took an involuntary dunk in the river, but noone seemed the worse for wear. Those rocks can sneak up on you, especially if you are watching for bald eagles. We saw an adult and an immature eagle on our way. Steve Wight guided the crew down this favorite section.

July 13

Wow! We had a total of 83 people, and 47 canoes and kayaks on the river from Rumford Point to Rumford. Half of the crew were kids and staff from the Rumford Group Homes, who were great. They all paddled well, and even took trash bags and cleaned up trash from all around the boat launch in Rumford. It looked neat and tidy when we left. The good folks from the Maine Rural Water Association helped organize the day, and provided the big group of hungry Trekkers a superb picnic lunch. Thanks to Paula and her merry band for a great day. This section of the river is wide and deep, and is used by both canoes and float planes alike. A plane flew right over us and touched down like a duck. In the morning, Karen Knight, who is the national interpretive freestyle canoeing champion showed us some incredible moves and spins in her canoe. She is amazing to watch! We are almost half way down the river, and the good energy and fun has been growing. On to the sea!